
Our boat in the distance in Virgin Gorda Sound
Cruising the British Virgins – We Always Want to Go Back for More
I don’t know what it is about the British Virgin Islands, but no matter how many times we have cruised there . . . we always want to go back for more. And that’s the way it was at the end of October when we invited Daniela and Friedrich Jaeger to join us for a week in those glorious islands.
Introducing Friends to Sailing and the Laid Back Atmosphere of the BVI
The Jaegers are very busy people, running a publishing empire with more magazines than I can remember from their offices on Sanibel Island, Florida. We weren’t sure they would really like the laid back atmosphere of doing nothing but sailing, eating, swimming, snorkeling and more sailing for a whole week. But take to they did, making our trip one of the most enjoyable we’ve ever had. We were bareboat cruising – no hired skipper or mate – just the four of us.
I arrived late in Beef Island the night we were supposed to board the boat because our American Airlines flight from Miami to San Juan was about two hours delayed and 10 minutes too late for our scheduled departure to Tortola. Steve managed to get on a Cape Air flight while I went through a nail-biter for the next three hours wondering if I would get on the last American Eagle flight of the night.
I was so tired, and so happy to sip a glass of wine and enjoy beautiful cheeses and pate Daniela and Friedrich bought earlier in the day, I didn’t even realize we had been assigned a Moorings 54.4 instead of a 50.5. In fact, none of us did until the next morning during our briefing.

An afternoon of sailing in Sir Francis Drake Channel
Getting into Island Time
It didn’t take long for us get into island time, departing late afternoon for a short hop over to Cooper Island. We were on the tail end of Hurricane Sandy which didn’t affect the islands other than to leave huge swells and some anchorages too rolly to stop for the day or overnight.

Cocktails in the cockpit as a full moon rises over Saba Rock
The next day, with all good intentions to stop at The Baths which was flying a yellow “caution” flag, we headed instead straight to Virgin Gorda and Saba Rock – a stone’s throw from the Bitter End. A popular sailors’ haven, the Bitter End was in the first days of its annual Pro-Am Regatta, but we were more interested in watching the full moon rise behind Saba Rock’s rollicking bar where “pain killers” attracted just about everyone in the harbor at sundown.
With fresh winds and big seas outside Virgin Gorda we opted to spend two nights in this idyllic harbor, watching the goings on, exploring ashore with lunch at the Bitter End, and lounging on deck with a good book.
What could be a better way to get acclimated to the pace we would follow the rest of the week? It didn’t matter where we went, it just mattered that we were all relaxing and having fun.
Reaching in a Southerly Breeze
With very unusual southerly winds for the first four days, we found ourselves reaching rather than beating from Virgin Gorda to Jost Van Dyke. As we left the Sound on Tuesday morning, we watched huge waves crashing against the shore, probably 30 feet up. The swell created troughs that were sometimes 20 feet deep, hiding most of any sailboats in our view. As we passed the reefs bordering the entrance to Little Jost Van Dyke, we saw waves good enough for surfing (except for the treacherous reefs below).

Daniela cooking up a feast in the galley of our chartered 54 footer
We Dined Mostly Aboard Thanks to Daniela
Daniela, a superb cook (no call her chef), cooked all of our delicious meals aboard except for the night we went ashore in Jost Van Dyke for lobsters at Foxys. In 1972, when Steve and I led our first flotilla cruise for Offshore Sailing School graduates, we met Foxy and his wife Tessa for the first time. Then their emporium was a tiny little shack with a sizable bar and picnic tables in the sand and open air.
Now it is a big operation, with a gift shop (that closed just as we arrived), a bigger bar, and a whole lot more tables in the sand and on a concrete slab under cover. Oh, we had such memories and stories to tell about our first years visiting Foxys on each cruise. When we asked if the legend (Foxy) was there that night, we were told he was “still on vacation,” which I suspect is what they always say. Our lobster dinner was fantastic and so was the price – $4.50 an ounce! Between the four of us we had about 45 ounces of lobster!
Our Favorite Anchorage – the Bite at Norman Island
That night started out nice and calm, but the wind turned slightly SW and we ended up broad side to the swells. We left early the next morning for a nice leisurely reach over to the Bight at Norman Island. This was a great harbor. Calm, not crowded, with plenty of moorings and beautiful crystal clear water. We anchored as far away from Willie T’s bar as possible, near a private sailboat from Canada with the most industrious couple we’ve ever watched – spending every moment cleaning and polishing their tricked out cruising sailboat.
The next morning, with the winds still SW but trying to go East, we set sail thinking we would end up back at Cooper Island. We spent a couple of hours enjoying the breeze in Sir Francis Drake Channel, tacking and jibing with full sail, and then decided to head back to the Bight and Norman Island for our last night before going to The Moorings docks.

Daniela steering on our favorite sailing day
Relishing Time on the Helm
Throughout our cruise Daniela was in her element – loving every minute as she steered our big yacht with a gentle touch on the helm. She is as good a sailor as she is a cook and business leader – and that means a lot!
When he wasn’t navigating and tweaking sails, Steve was engrossed in a great novel “Cutting for Stone” – which I had read a year ago. I was content to sit and enjoy the breeze as we sailed or sat on a mooring – carrying on lively conversations about just about anything, including politics as our cruise ended only a few days before the election.
We managed to keep up with the terrible news about Sandy hitting the NE (and our boats at Liberty Landing Marina in Jersey City, NJ) with our iPads and phones, but mostly just savored the good feeling of being on a beautiful yacht in one of the most beautiful cruising areas in the world.
Nothing Better than Marveling at an Amazing Sunset from the Deck of Your Yacht
You will hear me say this over and over, but there is just nothing better than marveling at an amazing sunset in a quiet harbor from the deck of a cruising yacht. And boy, did we have sunsets. From our mooring at Norman Island, both nights we waited in great anticipation for the “green flash.” It didn’t materialize but boats crossing the path of the setting sun made for some mighty wonderful photos!

Waiting for the Green Flash from the Bight, Norman Island
We have new found friends and a renewed belief that one must get away from all the craziness that is going on in this world regardless of deadlines at work and whatever long list of “obligations” we all seem to have. Now, we have new shipmates to share our love of sailing with and more great memories held in our thoughts and on “film.”
Last Night Aboard
When we arrived back at The Moorings base our Offshore Sailing School base manager, Mike Huffer, greeted us and accepted graciously all the leftover wine and goodies. (We always order too much.) The next morning we met up with five students starting their Fast Track to Cruising course with Offshore Sailing School. That evening we shared with the Jaegers a nice meal at Charlie’s at the base, and then after dinner wine below on our last night aboard.
The next morning we joined the Offshore Sailing Club flotilla meet and greet with Mike Huffer and Cap’n Fatty Goodlander – the celebrity sailor and popular Cruising World magazine writer who was joining this cruise. All the participants seemed to be Offshore Sailing School graduates, ready to set sail on four new Moorings 50.5s we chartered for this flotilla cruise. They were anxious to get underway, we were not anxious to be heading back to reality in a few hours.

Steve and Friedrich enjoying a good laugh underway
Renewed, Relaxed and Ready for More
Whatever you do, get out there and enjoy what nature has to offer. Set sail in the British Virgin Islands on a sleek yacht from The Moorings or one of their sister charter groups. Grab that time away as often as you can, and go back renewed and ready to take on any task in anticipation of another week or two in paradise very soon.
Happy Sailing!
From Doris Colgate
Offshore Sailing School’s CEO and President